Thursday, August 5, 2010

Recipe: Tomato Tart with Cornmeal Crust


I love tomatoes, and when the first ones come ripe, I want to just eat as many as I can in their pure, unadulterated form--just gulped down, sprinkled with salt, or maybe sliced on white bread with just a little mayo. A BLT, maybe. I eat them for almost every meal, in some form. And when I've satisfied my yen for just plain tomatoes, I start cooking them. I love fresh tomato sauces for pizza and pasta. Favorite quick fix: halve tomatoes and put them skin side down on a blazing hot grill. When the skins blister, slip them off of the tomatoes. Chop or puree, mix with roasted garlic and fresh basil, salt and pepper, and eat--on pasta, on pizza, or just scooped up with fresh crusty bread. But this isn't that recipe.

This is a recipe for a tomato tart. Really, it's barely a recipe--more of a preparation. I think I originally got this dish from Linda Blair (my dear friend and colleague, not the actress famous for spitting pea soup and spinning her head around), but lots of people make some version of it. It's a juicy, flavor-filled tart, good hot, cold, or room temperature, a meal on its own, but even better with a grilled steak, charred on the outside and red on the inside, sliced thinly and releasing its juices along with the tomato tart's. Maybe a simple salad dressed with a balsalmic vinaigrette on the side. I used a cornmeal crust, because it's more substantial and has a better texture to soak up the juices of the tomatoes. But you could easily use any crust, or even a store-bought pre-made one, and this would still be great.Cornmeal Crust (you might want to get the real recipe for this from Joy of Cooking if you don't make pie crusts often--after you've made a few, you get a sense of how they should feel and you can wing it. These measurements are approximate at best--I just threw stuff in my food processor until it looked right.) This makes enough for two regular sized pies or one big (11 x7?) tart.
  • 1 1/2 cups cornmeal (yellow makes it prettier)
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 TBS salt
  • 1 stick butter, cut into small pieces
  • 6 TBS cream cheese, cut into small pieces (freeze it first)
  • 5-6 TBS ice cold beer
First, be sure all these things are chilled--put the bowl and blade of your food processor in the freezer for a while, and make sure everything else is cold too--you can even freeze the butter and cream cheese. The idea is that you want the fats to stay cold and not melt while you mix the crust. That way, the little pieces of fat will melt during baking, creating little pockets and making your crust tender and flaky.

Toss the cornmeal, flour, and salt in the bowl of your food processor and whir it a few times to combine (we do love the verb "to whir" at WCN!). Add the small pieces of cold butter and cream cheese and pulse until the mixture looks like small crumbs. If you squeeze a handful together, it should hold. Again, when you've made a few crusts, you'll know how it should look and feel at this point. Humidity, moisture content of the meal and flour--all these things can make a difference, so I think it's better to learn how it should feel and then you can adjust the ratio of fat to flour/meal. Drizzle in the cold beer (I used beer for the first time last night on the show because Jonathan told me that using alcohol retards the formation of gluten, resulting in a tender crust, and I had a cold beer in my hand, and I believe everything Jonathan tells me. About food, anyway...). Add it a tablespoon at a time, while you pulse the processor, until the dough just starts to hold together and form a ball. Gather the dough and press into two disks. Wrap them in plastic and put them in the refrigerator for about a half hour (or up to one day).

When you're ready to make your pie, take the dough out and put it in the center of your pie pan (or a tart pan with a removable bottom). Use the palm of your hand to press the dough into the pan. Try to press it evenly, using the heel of your hand, but don't worry if it's not perfectly even all over. It should be fairly thin but not transparent (you may have too much dough, in which case you should pinch some out, repress the crust, and use the leftover dough to make little black bean and salsa hand pies--just press it into rounds, put a tablespoon of filling in, fold over, and crimp with a fork. Bake on parchment paper so it won't stick). Prick the bottom with a fork and bake in a 375 degree oven until it's just starting to brown around the edges and feels dry to the touch. Fill with whatever you want (besides tomaotes, this is a great crust for just about any savory tart or quiche) and bake until the bottom and sides are brown.

For the Tomato Tart (2 regular pies or one big one)
  • sliced tomatoes, enough to make about two layers in your tart
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • freshly chopped herbs, as much as you want, from a TBS to a quarter cup or so (basil, oregano and parsley are nice. I also like thyme or tarragon--anything that's good with tomatoes)
  • 2 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese
  • 1 jar mayonnaise
Sprinkle grated cheddar cheese over the bottom of the crust in a thin layer--the idea is that the cheese will melt and form a barrier to keep the tomato juice from making the crust too soggy. Slice tomatoes, not too thinly. A mix of colors is prettiest. Layer them over the cheese, salting and peppering as you go (I used porcini mushroom salt for a little added flavor boost, but just regular kosher salt will do) to taste. You want about two layers--more than that, and it tends to get too soggy. Sprinkle the chopped herbs over the tomatoes. Mix the mayo with the remaining cheese and spread it over the top like a delicious white-trash meringue. Bake at 375 degrees until the crust looks done and the topping is nicely browned--about 20 minutes or so. Let cool for about 10 minutes, then slice and serve. Don't expect this to sit in pretty wedges--this is a loose and juicy tart that wants to spread itself out on your plate to mingle with the other flavors there--the juice from a steak, maybe. If you have any, the leftovers are perfect for lunch the next day--or yummy eaten with a fork standing in front of the open refrigerator door for breakfast. Enjoy!

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Recipe: Baba Ghannouj



OK, call it Eggplant Dip if you must.  This is another recipe that I eyeballed completely, but the basic recipe comes from Mark Bittman's indispensible How to Cook Everything.  This is usually done in a food processor, but I like the texture to be a little chunky.  You could remove the seeds and/or skins from the eggplants before you mix it up, but you don't have to.

I think it pairs up great with a little touch of feta and some good olives.

Baba Ghannouj

6 small eggplants
Juice of two lemons
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup tahini
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts, chopped
salt and pepper

Prick eggplants all over with a fork and lay out on a sheet pan.  Roast in a 450 degree oven for 20-30 minutes, or until wrinkly and soft.  Let cool and chop coarsely.  Put in a bowl, add the rest of the ingredients, and mash up with a potato masher.  Stir until it's as smooth as you want it.

It's better if you let it sit for a few hours before you eat it.  Serve with plenty of warm pitas.

Recipe: Roasted Broccoli



This recipe came to me from The Amateur Gourmet, who got it from Ina Garten (aka The Barefoot Contessa).  I'm not a huge fan of Ina's show--just how many gay florists are there in the Hamptons, anyway?--but her recipes tend to be fantastic.

I generally eyeball this, but it's pretty close to the recipe.  The most important steps are to make sure the broccoli is really good and dry and to not chop the garlic up too finely (and definitely don't press it).  Ina's recipe suggests adding some basil at the end, which I didn't; I usually add a good pinch of red pepper flake, though I didn't tonight.

Roasted Broccoli
3 heads broccoli, cut into spears and thoroughly dried
1/4 cup + 1 tbsp olive oil
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp ground pepper
4 big cloves garlic, sliced
3 tbsp toasted pine nuts
1/3 cup fresh grated Parmesan (the good stuff)

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Toss broccoli spears with garlic and 1/4 cup olive oil, along with garlic, salt, and pepper.  Spread out on a sheet pan and roast for 20-25 minutes, or until some brown bits are forming on the tips of the florets.  Return to the bowl, add the rest of the oil, the pine nuts, and the Parmesan.  Toss, correct seasonings, and eat.

Recipe: Zucchini Pancakes

This is a recipe that Laura Biggs turned me on to last weekend. It still needed a bit of fine tuning but I think this is it. We had them for breakfast with cheesy scrambled eggs. So good...

From "How Not to Hide Your Vegetables"



Zucchini Pancakes

½ cup all purpose flour
½ tsp. baking powder
¼ tsp baking soda
¼ tsp. salt
1/8 tsp ground pepper (cayenne or aleppo, depending on desired spice level)
1/8 tsp. black pepper
½ cup buttermilk
2 tsp. vegetable oil
2 ½ cups shredded zucchini (about 1 pound)
½ cup shredded Vidalia onion
½ cup chopped red bell pepper
2 Tbs. grated parmesan
2 tsp rosemary (or basil)
Cooking spray

Combine 1st 6 ingredients and stir. Add milk and oil to moisten. (This is where you add a splash of good beer if you happen to have one in your hand. Not too much though!) Add zucchini and next 4 ingredients. Heat a nonstick griddle until hot and add heaping tablespoons, spreading each into a 2 inch round. Fry 3-5 minutes each side until browned.

Recipe: Spicy Carrot Soup

From "How Not to Hide Your Vegetables"

I first had carrot soup at the Atomic Cafe in Lexington many many years ago. And I loved it. Creamy, aromatic, flavorful and a little spicy. They served it with a sweet cornbread. And I would always get some momma's mac-n-cheese on the side. MmmmMmmMmm! Anyway, this was one of the first restaurant dishes that I tried to make at home with no clue where to start. and no internet to cheat with back then either. After several so-so attempts, I finally had a soup that I would eat with a straw. Hope you enjoy!


Carrot Soup

2 ½ cups sliced carrots
1 tbs. butter
1 tbs. flour
1 cup cream, ½ & ½ or milk
1 ½ cups broth, chicken or veggie
1 tbs. parsley
1 tbs. basil
1 tsp. ground cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper to taste

Steam carrots until very tender. Combine carrots and ¾ cup of broth in a food processor until smooth and set aside. In a large saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add flour and seasonings, stirring occasionally for 3 minutes. Add cream and cook until thickened and bubbly. Stir in blended carrot mixture. Add up to ¾ cup of broth as needed to thin. Cook until warmed through.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

WCN! August 2010: How Not to Hide Your Vegetables

You've seen those commercials: "This juice has two whole servings of vegetables in every glass! And your kids will never know!" Whole books have been written about hiding vegetables from your kids, and recent versions have been about sneaking them to your husband. Are vegetables really so horrible that we have to trick grown-ass men into eating them?

This week on What's Cookin' Now!, the world's only live radio cooking show (that we know of), we're going to put veggies front and center, and we'll trick our families into eating their vegetables by making them taste good. Broccoli, eggplants, tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers--we'll show you some vegetable dishes that you won't need to hide.

That's Wednesday, August 4, from 6-7PM, on 88.7 WMMT-FM in Whitesburg, KY! Stream it online at http://www.wmmtfm.org

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Cheerwine Kreme Filled Krispy Kremes


Now, just to be clear, I didn't plan a weekend in Asheville just so I could get my hands on some Cheerwine-filled Krispy Kremes. But I can't say that they had nothing to do with it.  When I heard about this North Carolina-only confluence of NC delicacies, I semi-seriously considered that I could drive the 3 1/2 hours to Asheville and pick some up, and then it occurred to me that I haven't been to Asheville in a while and CrazyCatLady and I were long overdue for a romantic weekend away.  So plans were made and off we went.

Of course, since we were there anyway, we had to look for some.  They were only being sold in grocery stores, and the first trip to the Ingles near our B&B proved unsuccessful.  But as we stopped there on our way out of town to stock up on Cheerwine itself and various New Belgium beers (come on, guys, why can I still not buy Fat Tire in KY?), I stumbled upon a small unassuming table of boxed-up Krispy Kremes in the back corner.  And there they were.

I should back up and explain a little bit.  I'm sure you know what Krispy Kremes are--namely, they are mankind's finest donut and a reason for living, especially if you hit the shop when they're busy and they pull one straight off the conveyor belt for you.  But you may not know that the company originated in Winston-Salem, NC.  Cheerwine is an intensely sweet, intensely carbonated cherry soda based in Salisbury, NC and much beloved throughout ACC country.  So the Cheerwine Kreme Filled Krispy Kreme is a carb-heavy celebration of central NC, a place I called home from 2002-2005.  (Oddly enough, you can now often find Cheerwine in retro-style bottles at Food City here in Hazard.)


The donut is chocolate covered, with sprinkles reflecting Cheerwine's dark burgundy hue.  I was a little concerned about the chocolate--isn't that gilding the lily? Is it going to cover up the Cheerwiny goodness?

On bisection we find a low filling ratio.  I generally don't have a problem with this, since I find most filled donuts to be overly filled and thus overly sweet.  But such a small amount means that the filling really has to deliver.

One problem is that store-bought KKs have to be revived in the microwave before they're worth eating, and barely ten seconds in the 'wave (not quite enough to revive the donut) had the filling running out of the fill hole.  This is a bigger problem if you don't like eating a whole donut at once.

But did it work?  Hells yes, it did.  The filling has a nice punch of Cheerwine flavor, and the chocolate complements it very well.  I don't think I'd buy more of these in the grocery store, but I'd definitely have one in the KK shop--if I happened to be in Salisbury, since it's the only place these will be available after today.